Rebel Yell

The day started well enough. I got on the road when I wanted to and I arrived at my first stop, the Doric ruins of Lagos before 8:30. The sign said open all year from 8:30 to 4:30. I could see the fence was cut and people as been “breaking in” as they have at many other ruins I’ve visited. I’m assuming the austerity cuts Greece has been experiencing in order to pay back their loans to the EU have cut staff at historic sites.

So at 8:33, I climbed the fence and in I went. At some point, I saw a man in a yellow coat standing arms akimbo. Uh oh. This was not going to go well.

But I took my time and explored the ruins. It was another beautiful spot and an extensive palace and town had existed there. I imagined them hauling stuff up from the port which was east to see from their vantage point, but not close.

As I suspected the museum worker was PISSED. I tried to explain to him that many sites I visit, no one is working there and I would not see many places I fleas I went in where people broke in. He was having none of it and was threatening to call the police. I suspected the police had more pressing matters and part of his indignation was because I could report him for being late. He finally let me going but would not take the money for the entrance e fee.

And the war of the day proved my point. The church of Pangea which says it’s open year round from 8-4. I got there at just before 10 am and not a soul in sight. I could only phot the exterior. Nexf stop was the El Greco museum — yes he was from Crete. And it was not open either despite its website saying it was.

Fortunately, it was a charming town built on a river. I grabbed a snack at a cafe and sat outside by the river to eat. I refilled my water bottle at their spring and I got another scented geranium to have at my new place. And then I was rolling again I didn’t really have any more planned stops, but I was open to whatever might come up.

After a stressful detour in a busy town having a Saturday market, I came upon Phaistos palace. It was a contemporary of the more famous Knossos and a disk that was found here has yet to be deciphered. As much as I disliked the interpretation and reconstruction of Knossos, it brings people to the site. Phaistos is equally important but far less visited.

And just to pile on todays theme, I had planned to visit the museum store on the way out. However the two museum workers were sitting outside chatty chatting, and they had closed the shop!

No more stops until o got to my new air BnB, and I was exhausted from a long and drama filled day. My host had not only stocked the fridge, but his wife had made chicken and vegetables and a Greek salad for me. And I had what was the first of what will be many gorgeous sunsets here.