Today was a leisurely start, although I did start on the blog early with some strong coffee. Margery served up blue berry waffles, and I felt badly that a 90 year old woman was waiting on me. Just before 10, I was headed south to St. Catherine's River natural area. It would have taken me about 30 minutes to get where I wanted to be if A -- I had bothered to read the signs and B-- my GPS hadn't sent me all over creation when I realized I needed help. Anyway an hour plus later I was launching my kayak into an oxbow lake filled with cypress knees.
Some of the reviews went on and on about alligators so I had some trepidation about this launch. I did some research on how to deal with alligators and also remembered that they are cold blooded. They weren't going to be Speed racer on this morning when it was 45 degrees. They would be conserving heat somewhere, I hoped.
Still, I didn't stay out long because with all the trees in the water it would be really easy to get lost, so I didn't stray too far. I decided Buddha and I needed a little hike while we were there.
Margery has said after the war, oil was discovered in these parts and some came to the area and got rich as the land rich/cash poor plantation owners floundered. I found evidence of this at the park.
On the way one from the park, I snapped this shot. Rehoboth refers to a Biblical area, and you don't see it often outside of Rehoboth, Delaware.
This church was literally out in the middle of nowhere. So, I guess those wandering the wilderness can find Jesus here!
Another landmark was a building that was a giant Mammie. She's in a bit of disrepair with some cracks and she's missing an arm. I wasn't able to get lunch there because they, like many places here , are not open on Sundays.
My next stop was Longwood Plantation. I had tried unsuccessfully to visit the day before. Their website says open til 5 p.m. but at 3:30 they were not letting anyone in!
It only seemed fitting to choose Longwood of the south since I've spent many happy hours at Longwood in PA. It turns out the architect, Samuel Sloan, was from Philadelphia, and the owners, the Nutts, had found this home design in a catalog Sloan published. It was clled Oriental home, but the Nutts made some deisgn changes so it was more Italiante in style, but still octagonal. The eight sided shape allowed for greater ventialtion, and they whould it would promote health.
Haller Nutt despite being born in Mississippi, was a staunch Unionist. He discussed the possibility of civil war about 10 years before it occurred, and he had decided it would be a tempest in a teapot that would end quickly in the Union's favor. Despite being pro-Union, he owned more than 200 slaves and had demeaning opinions as to how they should be treated. It gets complicated down here!
I do remember my American history class in college when the professor contradicted the mythology from elementary school where we were taught that the North wore the white coats and wanted to end slavery. No, more likely it had a lot to do with economics. The North did not like that South making for much money with "free" labor.
Nutt began construction on the house, and in 18 months the exterior shell and raised basement were completed. Then the Civil War began and Nutt not only lost his fortune but also his health. The official cause os death was pneumonia, but his wife said he died of stress form the war. Of course the fact that eight of 11 children survived to adult might have causes some stress too!!
The last photo is a puka which they also had at Melrose. It is a large wooden "fan" that a small slave child would have managed to create a breeze and disperse insects. The house also had a plate warmer. Another English tradition.
Natchez had been spared destruction by the Union because after Vicksburg, they surrendered. They had no desire to be bombed, starved, and forced to live in caves. Just as there were a lot of nationalities present here from revolving ownership --Native American, Spanish, French, and English, there seemed to be equally many views of the war.
Despite his death and his Unionist leanings, his home was spared. His widow remained and raised her children here. BUT....the house was never finished beyond the raised basement! The home stayed in the family for several generations until finally in 1968, they sold it to a couple from California committed to restoring the finished portion to its pre-Civil War glory. They got the home and all the furnishings, letters, etc...
Today, it is still the largest octagonal house in the US and it is still unfinished and never will be.
Since it was sunny, I wanted to go back down to the river front for a late lunch/early dinner, a cocktail, and a river view. I got all three and a gorgeous sunset to boot. I was only frustrated in my attempt to see The Briars on the way home. It was the home were Jefferson and Varina Davis married on top of the bluff. It had operated as a bed and breakfast, but it is now for sale abut not accessible. !!!
But did find that Lafayette was here. In Delaware, I lived near the Hales-Brynes house where he celebrated is 21 birthday. Yes, he was that young when he committed to help the American revolution! He was quite an interesting fellow and not so well loved when he returned to France and their revolution got violent (not that ours wasn't). My Delaware friends, I highly recommend the programs there at the house near Stanton.
My next stop was Bogalusa, LA for a civil rights stop for two nights. A march to Baton Rouge started there after some issues with the local paper mill. However, other guests here and some on the ghost tour highly encouraged me to go to St. Francisville, LA. One woman's grandmother (?) was an orphan who arrived at Ellis Island. A priest form St. Francisville would go to New York to get the orphans and bring them to Louisiana and find them adoptive parents. Plus they said it's a really cool little town, and its' not really out of my way just makes my way a little less direct. So slight change of plans to head there tomorrow.
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