That's a name that rolls right off a western tongue -- NOT -- But I think I finally got it. this is a town between Chennai and my ultimate destination for the day, Pondicherry or Puducherry. in India, many places have more than one name due to the Anglification of names during British occupation and the subsequent reverting to Indian names after gaining their independence in 1947. But first we need to get through Mamallapuram also known as Kadai Mallai.
While checking out of my hotel, an Indian woman started talking to me and asking me aobut my plans. Her husband joined her, and I learned that they were from Chennai but now live in Toronto. They have a home in Chennai but when they visit, they stay where I am at the Niketana. They got invested in my plans and told me I must have a guide a Mamallapuram or it will just be a pile of rocks. They also gave me the name and number of a guide who could do a walking tour with me in Pondicherry and another who could actually get me into Auroville, which is community that aims to be self sufficient and cashless. If you don't have a special guide, you can only go to a vieiwng point; you don't get to see the community. I worked on setting up those tours during the drive...But first we need to get through Mamallapuram also known as Kadai Mallai.
IMany guides were accosting me as I entered the site. Once inside the gates, another gentleman approached me and said I needed a guide, And guess what? He's a guide. I asked him why I should hire him, how did I know he was any good? He produced an official guide card simliar to the ones i've seen with guides I've used in Italy and Greece. So I had a guide.
Seven Pagodas is yet another name for this place due to all of the temples here and the fusion with Chinese architecture. Legend had it that seven temples existed here, but until the tsunami in 2004, it was only heresay. When the waters receded other structures were revealed. Since then, the Indian government has used sonar and some naval expeditions to determine that yes there were other temples. At this time, only one remains above water. Of the momuments here, it was the only built with pieces of rocks fused together. all the rest were carved from "one mountain" as my guide said, but I think he meant one rock or boulder.
This place was an important shipping stop as far back as Greek and Roman times and it is thought that prominence of the area is what inspired the temples to be built her during the Pallavv era during 6th century CE. Also during the tsunami some additional foundations were revealed that were previouslly unkown. All of these temples are related to Hindu gods.
The other temples build from "one mountain" we a short drive away. But first, he had to drag me hrough a gift shop where I only bought one thing for my brother despite their attempts to sell me carpets, paintings on camel bone and pashminas. Their card machine was not working, so I was able to leave with my "purchase" to find an ATM and bring the money later. I had told the guide I had a driver, but he suggested he take me to the other sites on his motobike. You know, at this point, I'm pretty acclimated to India, so I'm like ok. I mean the trip would not be complete without a motorbike ride.
Off we went to the site of five temples for the five rathas or gods. The biggest, fat one, Bhima, had the largest temple. The others varied in size and many had carvings planned for the inside, but the guide kept saying "they were unfinishable." I never was clear if that was due to some political reasons or becasue the rock would not support the carving. We motored to another location where there were several other monuments.
The two other main sites in my mind are Arjuna's penance, which is a busy wall carving with many of the gods and many stories. For instance, one is about fake versus true humility. the person with real humility had an empty stomach and the fake la on a fat belly. The other is Ganesh's butterball. Ganesh is a fat, happy god who brings prosperity. Apparently he likes his butter so this large boulder that is balancing on top of a rock slab was named for him. Some have tried to move it unsuccessfully including the British who once hooked up seven elephants to it.
My guide knew some people at the site, including one of the guards whose two children were with him. The daughter was especially serious. He told me later the man's wife had died, and the children are allowed to be at work with him when they aren't in school. He spoke to some others on the site; they were arranging to meet at four for refreshments.
Of course, he took me to another store where supposedly the local university students sell their carvings. Every region is known for something, and this region has the corner on stone carving, and their school requires eight years of training. They were again disappointed because I only chose two small items. This vendor, however, followed me to the ATM to make sure he got his money. Then it was back to my driver, and we were on the road to Pondicherry for a stay in the French Quarter.
One thing aobut this drive is that there IS open country in India when you get away from the cities in Tamil Nadu. We also passed a Lenovo site, which is of interest to me becuase of all the years I've worked in IT. The other state I visisted, Kerala, is much smaller and much more densely populated. So as we drove up into the mountains, I expected the traffic to thin out, but it never did. On this drive along the coast, there were open spaces and, of course, beach side resorts.
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